Shady Creek Nursery TIPS FOR GROWING HOSTAS
and Other Plants
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FEBRUARY
(2-28-01)

Be careful when pruning hydrangeas: At this time of year, just cut off the dead tips back to a new growth bud on the mop-head hydrangeas (macrophylla). Buds were formed last year, and you don't want to cut them off!

(2-18-01)

I have already found snails nibbling on plants. It is not too early to put out some slug and snail bait. Snails often chew holes in the leaves of hostas before they even emerge and unroll. Once the damage is done, the plant is disfigured for the season! I use Deadline M-Ps. It is available in 10-and 50-pound bags. It is a tiny bright blue pellet. I will attempt to find the one that comes in 3-pound containers. They are not the blue color. Any bait you can find will help, I'm sure.
I'm going to rake the mulch away from the hosta crowns this month to try to cut back on snail damage, also.
Hostas in containers are already coming out of dormancy. 'Chinese Sunrise', montana 'Aureomarginata', lancifolia, etc., are already several inches high. Be prepared to give emerging hostas in containers some protection if the temperature will be below 28 degrees for several hours.

MARCH
(3-18-01)

Don't cut your bulb foliage (daffodil,hyacinth, etc.) after blooms fade until the leaves go limp and yellow; then it is safe to cut it. They are storing food for next year's blooms.
Wait until after azaleas finish blooming to do your fertilizing. (More about that next month.)
If you need to prune spring flowering bushes, do it immediately after blooming. Quince, forsythia, etc., need to be pruned soon if they getting too big or woody. Remember to just take out some of the older, woody branches near the base of the bush to revitalize the plant. Try to keep the natural shape of the plant, rather than just "whacking" it!
Keep putting out slug and snail bait, especially since we have had so much rain. Remember slugs and snails love lots of plants-not just hostas.

APRIL
(4-09-01)

When your azaleas finish blooming, prune any extra long branches that are ruining the shape of the plant. Reach deep down into the plant and cut it. Prune several branches this way to open up the interior of the plant and let a little light in (for a bushier plant).
Fertilize with a fertilizer for acid-loving plants. I use "Sta-Green Azalea, Camellia, and Rhododendron" fertilizer. I follow the directions on the back about the amount to use according to the size of the plant. Scatter it all the way to the dripline of the branches, keeping it away from the center of the plant.
Also, if you have camellias and rhodendrons, fertilize them at the same time if they are through blooming.
Watch out for the caterpillars that are everywhere right now. They love coral bells and hostas and will eat the whole plant down to the ground in one night. We use Orthene on the plants; it doesn't hurt the hostas. It is systemic so it will last a while.
All varieties of hostas should be at least showing up by now. If you don't see any sign of life where one was located, you might want to dig carefully to see if has disappeared. It is not likely that it died due to the heat or lack of water; probably something ate its roots.
If you haven't fertilized your hostas yet, that needs to be done with a slow-release fertilizer with a higher nitrogen content, such as 12-6-6 or 16-8-12. If you are always unsure about how much to use, we have premeasured Osmocote tablets that you bury around the edge of the plant; they slowly dissolve, feeding the plant over several months. You can do it once each year and forget it! For a plant 36" in diameter, use 3 or 4 tablets. (We sell 25 in a bag for $2.50.)
For those of you who keep asking if lantana should have made it through the winter, I think most did. Mine just started leafing out in the last week. Probably all the branches are dead, but it should come out near the ground.

MAY
(5-22-01)

As soon as your hydrangeas finish blooming, prune as heavily as you wish, then leave them alone till next year.
For "Annabelle" hydrangea, pruning back to 18" may encourage rebloom in fall

HOOKED ON HOSTAS!
(The following is an article written by Toni Willoughby,owner of Shady Creek Nursery,
for Louisiana Gardener magazine)

DIVISION	--	FERTILIZER	--	PLANTING
PESTS	--	LANDSCAPE USE	--	TO LEARN MORE

I admit it--I am hooked on hostas. To some people hostas are just a bunch of boring green leaves that will grow in the shade, but I know that they are the nearly perfect perennial, looking beautiful 6-8 months of the year, then disappearing for the winter and coming back better than ever.When I first moved to my home in the middle of the woods, I had never seen a hosta. It didn't take long to discover what great plants they were. The first ones that I planted received virtually no care and actually grew. They were beautiful the next year; I had to try a few more! I also read a few articles on hostas and learned there are hundreds of varieties, from miniatures to giants, with smooth shiny leaves or very corrugated texture, solid or variegated, with shades of green, gold, white, or blue. Being a plant lover, I had to start collecting.

FAVORITE HOSTAS
After much experimentation I have found many favorites. Since my first hostas were solid green, I tried some of the brighter ones. My favorite for deep shade is the classic 'Gold Standard'. With its chartreuse center and dark green margin, it almost glows. 'Paul's Glory' is a new, more striking cultivar that has the same effect, but with larger, more textured leaves. 'Frances Williams', a favorite of hosta collectors for years, is another must-have for brightening dark areas. This hosta has large corrugated blue-green leaves edged in chartreuse. A tendency for the edges to burn in too much heat or sun does not keep most from having this in their collection. Deep shade and plenty of moisture keep it looking its best. 'August Moon' also lightens up a dark area beautifully; it has rounded greenish-gold leaves. Nothing compares with the blue hostas for elegance in the shade garden. Sieboldiana 'Elegans' is a tried and true favorite; its large rounded leaves and upright habit make it a stand-out; 'Big Daddy' and 'Love Pat' are gorgeous specimen plants, as well. 'Abiqua Drinking Gourd' is amazing with its leaves so deeply cupped that one could drink from them. I love the look of gold leaf hostas planted with both blue hostas and with those having a blue margin on chartreuse or vice versa. 'Midwest Magic', is a fast-growing hosta that blends well with both blues and golds. One thing I have found out about hostas, though--you don't have to plan a matching color scheme to make an attractive shade garden. When rows of hostas are sitting side-by-side in a totally random color combination, they look beautiful. Perfectionists will always have to find that exact color to go with another plant, but I don't think you can go wrong when picking a group of hostas to plant together. There seems to be an infinite number of choices of beautiful green and white variegated hostas. The most often seen variegated hosta is undulata 'Albomarginata', the green hosta with the white edge that can be found in almost any shady garden. This is still an excellent plant to use in mass plantings because it is inexpensive, readily available, and grows quickly. The reverse variegation of undulata 'Mediovariegata' (green with white streaks in center) also provides interest. Another old favorite is 'Francee'; its crisp leaves with narrow white margin are very attractive. 'Wide Brim' has a creamy margin that gets wider with age. Many hostas with large areas of white are not strong growers in our area or will turn green by midsummer. 'Night Before Christmas', with its elongated leaves is the best-growing new white-centered hosta I've found. It's easy to pick out at a distance; 'Loyalist' is more striking, but so far does not grow nearly as well for me.

MOST DEPENDABLE HOSTAS

Hostas with fragrant blooms are some of the best hostas to grow in the South. Originating from the heat-tolerant plantaginea, they emerge earlier in the spring and go dormant later in the fall than many other varieties. They tend to put new flushes of foliage on all season, keeping a fresh look. These are also some of the most sun-tolerant hostas. 'Royal Standard', 'So Sweet', 'Fragrant Bouquet', 'Summer Fragrance', 'Iron Gate Glamour', and 'Invincible' are all excellent for our area. Two new fragrant varieties look especially promising--'Guacamole', a large hosta with greenish-gold leaves and darker green margin, and 'Fried Bananas', the most sun tolerant gold hosta I have seen. Many varieties will adapt to several hours of early morning sun, but it should be done gradually if moving from a very shady location to prevent burning of the foliage. If the foliage does burn or the plant goes heat dormant, it does not necessarily mean death for the plant. Often the next year the plant comes back better able to handle the situation. If not, moving it to a better location is the only solution. Hostas can be moved at any time of the year. I believe it is better to move a plant to improve its environment (even if it isn't the best time of year) than to leave it suffering.

GROWING CONDITIONS

For the most successful hosta growth, give the plants the most light possible without burning the leaves. Dappled sunlight or very bright open shade is the best condition for optimum growth of most hosta varieties. The deeper the shade, the larger the leaves will get; there will also be fewer of the leaves. This does not mean the plant will be unattractive; it will simply have a very different look from one grown in stronger light. Colors of leaves vary greatly with changes in light intensity as well. 'Gold Standard's' deep lime green center will color to gold or even white with increasing light. Depending on your preference, you can vary the placement of plants to obtain the look you want. Although people don't grow hostas for their blooms, many hostas have very attractive flowers. Plantaginea's long pure white tubular blooms are beautiful and very fragrant; they open in late afternoon, while most hostas' blooms open in the morning. The blooms of fragrant hostas range from white to lavender and smell delicious on a warm day. Other hostas with pretty blooms are those of ventricosa parentage. These have deep lavender buds which open to blooms with lavender and white stripes on the inside. Examples of these include ventricosa, ventricosa 'Aureomarginata', and 'Lakeside Black Satin' (one of the darkest green hostas on the market). Using 'Blue Cadet', 'Golden Tiara', or 'Lemon Lime' in a mass planting is especially attractive at bloom time because each is a very floriferous variety.If space is a problem, there is a hosta to fit into the smallest spot. 'Stiletto' is a cute little hosta that spreads by stolons. Its leaves are rippled green with a narrow white edge, and it is only 6" tall. 'Fragrant Blue', 'Allan P. McConnell', and 'Lemon Lime' are other favorite small hostas. Besides having beautiful narrow lime green leaves, 'Lemon Lime' has deep lavender flowers that provide a nice contrast. 'Golden Tiara' has a green leaf with a neat gold margin and is in the small to medium size range. It makes a nice edger plant, as does 'Gold Drop'. 'Diamond Tiara' is a very neat looking hosta with green leaves and crisp white edge; this plant is stoloniferous and multiplies rapidly. Most people want massive clumps of hostas and wonder why their hostas just don't get very big. The first requirement for a really large hosta is to buy a variety that has the potential to be large. This may seem obvious, but most don't think about this when choosing a plant. All hostas will make increasingly larger clumps with age, but most will never be monsters that make great specimen plants or background plants. 'Summer Fragrance' (the largest and most vigorous of the fragrant hostas), 'Colossal'(a very large leaved solid green plant), 'Elegans', 'Blue Angel', 'Sum and Substance' (probably the most famous large hosta), and 'Guacamole' are eye-catchers after just a few years. It takes all hostas several years to obtain the leaf size and texture that gives them their distinct identity, but these can be massive.

PLANTING HOSTAS

When planting beneath trees, I do not prepare an entire bed. I dig individual holes for my plants, altering placement where required because of large tree roots. In an area where roots are not a problem, it would be best to prepare a large area. Hostas appreciate soil that is rich in organic matter so addition of bark mulch or peat is often needed. Keep in mind that tree roots are going to go straight to the nicely improved soil. It may be necessary to redo an area after a few years if the tree roots become too thick around your hostas and sap all the nutrients or strangle the plants. Often large clumps of hostas will begin shrinking in size, and root competition is often the cause (assuming nothing has been eating the roots of the hostas).With a container-grown hosta, first bare root the plant, removing all soil and gently untangling the roots. Make sure the hole is wide enough to accommodate all roots without cutting or folding. Mound the soil in the center of the hole, spread roots over the mound, and fill the hole. Do not plant any deeper than the plant was growing originally. If your hostas arrived bare root, it would be good to soak the roots in a bucket of water for a few hours to replenish their moisture.

FERTILIZING

I like to fertilize hostas as they emerge in the spring with a slow-release fertilizer(12-6-6 or a similar formulation). Supplemental feeding with a water soluble fertilizer sprayed on the foliage twice a month would also be beneficial during spring. In June I usually give another small application of the slow release fertilizer(I am using a 3-month type). Keep newly planted hostas constantly moist while they adapt to their new home. Hostas are very drought tolerant plants, but will not do their best in a dry situation. Constantly moist soil with good drainage is preferable for optimum growth; however, hostas are extremely adaptable and often will grow well in wet soil. Experimentation is the only way to know if they can withstand your own particular problem location.

DIVIDING HOSTAS

Dividing hostas can be done at any time of year, but the best times would be spring and early fall. During the hot summer months, the plants are not as actively growing and would take longer to re-establish. There is no real need to ever divide a hosta unless it totally overtakes its allotted space. Hostas can grow undisturbed for thirty years or more. Constantly dividing to get more plants never gives the satisfaction of a beautiful, mature, well-grown plant.

PESTS

Slugs and snails are always a problem in a moist, shady location. I do not have a miracle remedy; an early application of slug and snail bait (I use Deadline brand.) before the hostas emerge and occasional treatments thereafter are the only things I do. Keep in mind that often the leaves are damaged before they even unroll. The moist, cool conditions in March and April when hostas are ending their dormant period are perfect for those creatures. If you pull the mulch away, usually there will be several snails already crowded around the crown of the hosta before it comes up. When I have time I like to pull the accumulated leaves and mulch away from the crowns of the plants early; but in a woodland situation this is not always feasible. It is hard to be a perfectionist in the woods; I just try to enjoy the overall beauty and not dwell on tiny holes in the leaves. Speaking of holes in leaves--caterpillars, grasshoppers, and beetles can make "Swiss cheese" out of hostas. Spraying a systemic insecticide, such as Orthene, on the plants is helpful if you start before there is too much damage. Once damage is done, the only solution (if you can't stand to look at your plant) is to cut off the leaves and wait for new ones to come out.

USING HOSTAS IN THE LANDSCAPE

There is no best way to use hostas in the landscape. Mass planting of one variety gives one the feeling of a large space, but many of us want to show off the many varieties we have collected. Beds filled just with hostas are gorgeous most of the year, but very boring before their emergence in spring. Mixing in a variety of shrubs, ferns, and other perennials give interest to an otherwise bare landscape in winter. There are a number of beautiful evergreen ferns and shade perennials that will keep the garden inviting while the hostas are resting. For those who do not have enough shade to grow hostas in their gardens, many are turning to container gardening on covered patios, under carports and porches, or even under arbors. Interesting mixes of hostas, shade-tolerant grasses, ivies, and annuals make beautiful arrangements. When evergreen perennials are mixed in, the container can be left in place in winter and be an attractive accent even when the hostas are dormant. Hostas are excellent for beginning shade gardeners. They are one of the easiest of all plants to grow, and there is nothing so motivating as seeing a plant come up the second year looking more beautiful than before. Using hostas in the landscape makes shade gardening a breeze.

LEARN MORE

If you would like to learn more about hostas, the following books are recommended:

The Hosta Book, 2nd edition, edited and compiled by Paul Aden, published by Timber Press, Inc. (This book does not have the newest varieties in it, but it is a great book for beginning hosta collectors.)
The Gardener's Guide to Growing Hostas by Diana Grenfell, published by Timber Press, Inc.
The Genus Hosta by W. George Schmid, published by Timber Press, Inc. is an excellent reference for the serious collector.

Membership in The American Hosta Society provides two very informative journals each year. These have color photos and articles on many topics, including new varieties. For membership information check their web site: www.hosta.org.

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